In this short series, I will cover Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Spring / Summer 2020. I will publish a brief daily article on my favourite collections from each day, including my personal top few looks from each.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 runs from Tuesday 18th June 2019 – Sunday 23rd June 2019. Collections are debuted at various locations and showrooms across the capital, yet keep to a schedule so that no two shows overlap. The first show of each day typically starts at 10:00, and the last not until 20:00 or 21:00.
All photo credits in this article go to WWD (Unless stated otherwise)
My top five collections of the day
Stemming from the love for Art Deco held by the brand’s founder, Jeanne Lanvin, Lanvin‘s Spring / Summer 2020 show was held in the Piscine Pailleron, a historical Parisian swimming pool designed by architect Lucien Pollet in 1933.
In tandem with the aquatic venue, the collection had a strong nautical theme, with shades of blue being the predominant colour throughout. Furthermore, paisley prints reminiscent of seashells, oversized sailor collars, and seaworthy striped trousers consolidated this aesthetic.
For their final season at the Parisian fashion house, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon stayed true to their eight successful years as head designers. Serenaded by Solange Knowles, the show was more of a concert, with 7000 guests looking on as performance artists swirled down the runway in Kenzo‘s own archive.
Paying homage to the brand’s Japanese roots, the collection took much inspiration from Ama free divers, aka ‘the last mermaids’. This could be seen in the fishing net bags, rope and shell necklaces, and pearl-studded womenswear looks. Some garments were even printed with the image of a Japanese woman sitting at the ocean’s edge.
French label Pigalle deliver another season of sophisticated basketball style inspired looks, this time collaborating with none other than Michael Jordan himself.
Relaxed shapes and futuristic touches gave Pigalle‘s Spring / Summer 2020 collection a refreshing look, with everything from loungewear to court – ready shorts and sweats. The long-time Nike collaborators didn’t just debut their latest Jordan collab; they also unveiled a new Air Force 1, as well as Converse Star Series trainers.
A technical tour de force, 1017 ALYX 9SM debuted another function-driven season, remaining remarkably consistent to the label’s technical aesthetic. Whilst the women’s side of the collection consisted largely of little black dresses, the menswear was dominated by large and imposing outerwear looks, creating a gendered divide in silhouettes.
Amongst the mix was yet another Nike collaboration, in the form of a white running trainer, with a sock upper. These trainers contrasted against the rest of the footwear, such as leather mules, chainlink loafers, and peep-toe heels for the ladies.
With his first collection debuting Celine‘s menswear line just now hitting stores, Hedi Slimane presents his second season at the French fashion house, once again dripping in his retro rock ‘n’ roll sharp-cut style.
A spate of beautiful jackets, cut slim and razor sharp, compliment an array of vintage style shirts, with camp collars making yet another appearance (definitely a trend to keep an eye on). Every single look was outfitted with a pair of aviator sunglasses, with which, along with the prevalence of denim throughout the collection, gave for a very 70s Hollywood feel.