In this short series, I will cover Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Spring / Summer 2020. I will publish a brief daily article on my favourite collections from each day, including my personal top few looks from each.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 runs from Tuesday 18th June 2019 – Sunday 23rd June 2019. Collections are debuted at various locations and showrooms across the capital, yet keep to a schedule so that no two shows overlap. The first show of each day typically starts at 10:00, and the last not until 20:00 or 21:00.
All photo credits in this article go to WWD
My top five collections of the day
The Korean label Juun.J exhibited many a leather-clad look in its military-inspired Spring / Summer 2020 show in Paris. A notable theme throughout the show was the exaggerated design details, from the boxy sartorial silhouettes to flowing leather trenchcoats with heavily padded shoulders.
Utilitarian design was another prominent running theme, especially in the accessories – side bags laden with pockets accompanied smaller strap-on arm pouches. Equally standing out were the host of cargo-style trousers, with their oversized pocket details.
Kris Van Assche at the helm, Berluti delivered a very strong Spring / Summer 2020 collection, showcasing many a classic look with just the right dose of creative craftsmanship. The show was a genderless affair, with Gigi Hadid walking for the final look.
Ranging from slim-fit to flowing wide-leg cuts, there was a tailored look to check every box. Strong accessories and footwear gave the collection a solid foundation, whilst the occasional graphic printed shirt added a playful touch.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
Starting off as a footwear label, collaborating with Puma in its earliest years, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro moved into couture in the early 2000s. Since then, the Japanese designer has had many strong seasons, S/S 20 definitely being among them.
In a collection focusing on deconstruction and the mixing of different styles, Yasuhiro sent shirts made from half flannel and half workshirt, as well as reconstructed jackets such as a half MA-1 bomber jacket, half check rain jacket down the runway. Bold prints and colourful details were rife, exemplifying the designer’s youthful touch.
Just as the creative director duo Luke and Lucie Meier are, contrasting colours married together in this striking collection from minimalist German label Jil Sander. Maintaining the elevated sensibility the brand is known for, clean-cut tailoring met with a plethora of stylish accessories to further employ these contrasting ascetics.
The season wasn’t all black and white, however, as the occasional botanical print, or a splash of blue or burgundy added variety to the mix. There was a wide range of footwear too, from sandals to boots, mixed and matched with both casual and formal looks.
Dior continues to shine under the stellar direction from Kim Jones in their Spring / Summer 2020 collection. With collaborators such as RIMOWA, ALYX‘s Matthew M. Williams, and artist Danial Arsham, this season only improves upon the massive current success of the Parisian label.
Pleasant pastels came hand in hand with pearly whites and mesmerising patterns – there was seemingly no end to the variety exhibited by Jones in the Dior S/S 20 show. Pieces that particularly stood out to me included the rollercoaster buckled belts designed by MMW, as well as the leather saddle bags, and sheer printed shirts.