In this short series, I will cover Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Spring / Summer 2020. I will publish a brief daily article on my favourite collections from each day, including my personal top few looks from each.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 runs from Tuesday 18th June 2019 – Sunday 23rd June 2019. Collections are debuted at various locations and showrooms across the capital, yet keep to a schedule so that no two shows overlap. The first show of each day typically starts at 10:00, and the last not until 20:00 or 21:00.
All photo credits in this article go to WWD
My top five collections of the day
Japanese fashion is often dark and mysterious, with sharp lines and structured cuts – Issey Miyake seems to subvert this. During an eccentric morning show, in which the models interacted with each other and even played football, the colourful men’s label gave an uplifting start to the day.
The vast majority of garments in the collection were pleated in Homme Plisse Issey Miyake‘s signature style, from the trousers to the jackets. In a world of bright and vibrant colours, the clothes moved in tune with the models’ movements, soft cotton flowing graciously.
Another Rick Owens season, another collection of avant-garde silhouettes in black, white, and off-white shades. For Spring / Summer 2020, the Californian designer debuted some bold new looks too – a myriad of iridescent pieces, including a striking long iridescent leather trench coat.
Perhaps the most surprising element of the show, and that’s saying a lot, was the collaboration with Champion. This wasn’t a range of hoodies and t-shirts like we’re used to from the sportswear label, however, it was what resembled women’s bodysuits, unbuttoned at the crotch, with a tonal ‘C‘ logo embroidered on the chest.
Coming like a continuation of Louis Vuitton’s S/S 19 men’s collection, Virgil Abloh’s debut season, S/S 20 from the fashion powerhouse featured endless light pastel tailoring and loose fitting casualwear.
The range of soft tones and flowing garments did make LV’s show one of the most pleasant to watch – many looks were covered in embroidered flowers and plants, with not as much a focus on the infamous monogram as last season. However, this wasn’t the case for the bags, which were almost all fully decked-out in LV branding, printed or embossed.
Dries Van Noten
As 1/6 of the Antwerp Six, Dries Van Noten rarely disappoints. Channelling 70s hippie culture and general sleaziness, the collection was steeped in flowers and earth tones, not to mention some brilliant tie-dye and mesmerising patterns.
70s wardrobe staples were all over, with enough leather jackets, wide lapel blazers, and flowing shirts to dress the cast of American Hustle. This is definitely a season for those who crave maximalism, most tastefully implemented.
The show is in a McDonalds. The models are wearing AirPods and eating fries. Is this really the same man who turned Balenciaga into the biggest fashion house in the world last year? Demna you are an enigma.
I think I simply like this collection for its meme value – have a look at this Instagram post from diet_prada. That being said, there are plenty of unironically enjoyable pieces – the outerwear was very strong, a few eye-catching accessories too. Lord forgive anyone who wears the ECSTASY internet explorer logo t-shirt, though.