In this short series, I will cover Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Spring / Summer 2020. I will publish a brief daily article on my favourite collections from each day, including my personal top few looks from each.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 runs from Tuesday 18th June 2019 – Sunday 23rd June 2019. Collections are debuted at various locations and showrooms across the capital, yet keep to a schedule so that no two shows overlap. The first show of each day typically starts at 10:00, and the last not until 20:00 or 21:00.
All photo credits in this article go to WWD (unless stated otherwise)
My top five collections of the day
Young Parisian label Études presented their Spring / Summer 2020 menswear collection today, titled ‘Diffusion’ and ‘Illusion’. This theme seemed to be taken so literally, that they printed the Wikipedia pages of the two words onto shirts.
As well as these *unusual* prints, there were swathes of acid wash, overdyed camouflage, and otherwise weathered or distressed designs. Quite notably, a large proportion of the collection appeared in Neo Mint, the Pantone shade set to be SS20’s biggest colour trend – at this rate, Études will make sure of that.
It’s another season from the wildly popular streetwear-cum-high fashion label, Off-White, and as ever a celebrity guest walked the runway – although it was only Sheck Wes this time, I hope money isn’t getting tight, Mr Abloh!
The collection debuted another collaboration with Nike, and also one with Futura, whose artwork appeared on a few pieces, including Sheck Wes’ outfit. Seeming now to be a running trend this season, many garments were covered in graffiti-like details, whilst others were covered in paint splatters, colour gradients, and a whole manner of patch details.
Another off-kilter yet wonderfully accessible collection from the Swedish label; Acne Studios go from strength to strength with their progressive menswear looks.
Many beautiful takes on real menswear staples, including tailoring, knitwear, and outerwear were sent down the runway, coming in a range of easy-on-the-eye colours. Plenty of earth tones, accompanied by shades of beige, and cool bluey-greens gave the show perfect visual balance, not to mention the range of footwear, from formal to casual, to athletic trainers.
It was very difficult to choose my favourite three looks from this collection, there was barely a single look which failed to amaze. The whole affair speaking Spring / Summer fluently throughout, the Roman fashion house truly shone this S/S season.
The Valentino SS20 runway saw boxy silk shirts with vibrant all-over prints, some even accompanied by an overshirt, all tucked into a leather or canvas belt. Who would’ve thought it was possible to make camo print look classy? There were chunky hiking boot-inspired trainers with most looks too – seems like we might have another trend on our hands.
Jun Takahashi’s latest collection looks like monochromatic tailoring for vampires, and I love it. Seemingly moving away from the streetwear bubble, there’s a huge lack of branding here, or any loud graphics at all for that matter – 95% of the looks are in shades of all-black.
The devil’s in the details – tonal prints of vampires, as well as photography courtesy of Cindy Sherman, are emblazoned across the fronts of many a sharp-shouldered, wide-lapeled suit jacket or blazer. The colour palette is understated to such an extreme, that one is forced to focus instead on the sharp lines and clean cuts of every piece, showcasing the Japanese label’s sartorial excellence.