In this short series, I will cover Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Spring / Summer 2020. I will publish a brief daily article on my favourite collections from each day, including my personal top few looks from each.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 runs from Tuesday 18th June 2019 – Sunday 23rd June 2019. Collections are debuted at various locations and showrooms across the capital, yet keep to a schedule so that no two shows overlap. The first show of each day typically starts at 10:00, and the last not until 20:00 or 21:00.
All photo credits in this article go to WWD
My top five collections of the day
New York label Bode makes its debut at Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 2020 led by eponymous head designer Emily Bode, CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year and LVMH Prize finalist.
The collection was heavy on silk and embroidery, with pieces ranging from reimagined tailoring all the way to athleisure inspired casual wear. Plenty of rich burgundies, gold, and mustard tones gave the show an exuberant feel, whilst splashes of a muted, cooler palette brought many of the looks together.
Sustainable international label Phipps sent a full range of ‘Functional Cowboy Couture’ (thank Hypebeast for that one) looks down the runway for their Spring / Summer show in Paris today – who would’ve thought Lil Nas X’s influence would stretch this far! (read: sarcasm)
With retro graphic prints, sleeveless t-shirts, and baggy cargo trousers, this collection is clearly indebted heavily to 90s punk culture, as fashion seemingly is, year in, year out. Phipps sets itself a unique image by pairing these looks with hiking boots, chunky jewellery, and eccentric accessories – all working together very well.
For his second runway show at Paris Fashion Week, Heron Preston cites the streets of New York over the past 20 years as his main influence; the collection is actually titled ‘Concrete jungle’.
This theme is very apparent throughout, with construction and high-viz inspired workwear garments, dull concrete-like tones, and even graphic elements such as graffiti covering many pieces. The designer also teased upcoming collaborations in the show, including Nike, Levi’s, and GORE-TEX.
Chinese label SANKUANZ moves on from the blacked-out theme of its Autumn / Winter 2019 collection shown earlier this year in Paris, to a more vibrant mix, incorporating splashes of the rainbow into a wide range of grunge-inspired garments.
All sorts of colourful designs were debuted in SANKUANZ‘s Spring / Summer 2020 show, ranging from neon, leopard print, houndstooth, to even graffiti. The whole collection had a very rebellious theme, featuring standout pieces such as their studded denim jackets, paint-splattered hoodies, and graffiti-covered silk shirts.
Alexandre Mattiussi’s label AMI moves on from its conventions of traditional Parisian elegance for its Spring / Summer 2020 men’s show, for a more sleek, minimal collection. A genderless runway saw many muted, blacked-out looks, with relaxed cuts and adapted wardrobe staples.
The collection bore a resemblance to the higher end of Parisian fashion, bringing to mind houses such as Saint Laurent and Balmain. The monochrome leather, pleated trousers and silver jewellery hardware gave for a luxury atmosphere, whilst the splashes of warm colours stayed true to AMI‘s more lighthearted Parisian roots.